Wednesday, March 26, 2025

Hiroshima Hijinks

The train ride from Yufuin to Hiroshima was pretty uneventful- things started when they were supposed to, stopped when they were supposed to and worked as they were supposed to. The initial shock of things working as they're supposed to was no wearing off. In fact we actually expected them to work as they were supposed to. I could tell I was going to have a major reality check the moment i left this ountry. I was not looking forward to that. We arrived in Hiroshima around noon and shortly afterdropping off our luggage at the hotel, we high-tailed it to catch the ferry to Miyajima. Miyajima is an island just off Hiroshima that boasts of the famous O-Tori gate at the Itsukushima shrine, which is a UNESCO world heitage site.
OF course, there were many other attactions that Miyajima was known for, or so we heard. Like it's 'wild' Sika deer population, for example. They seemed to have an odd fondness for paper and cloth. How er... wild.
It also havs a lovely otanical garden with many walkways. We mised the cable car to the top of mount Misen by a whisker, but it allowed us time to ro roam the streets of Miyajima (the island had no traffic signals) and click a pcturesque photo or two.
We caught the sunset ferry back to Hiroshima to dine at one of the most popular Tapas chains in Japan - Torikizoku I loved everything about theyakitori experience - The drinks, the srvice, the ambience and the food. (there might be a bit of a wait to get seated, but it'll be totally worth it once you're seated. Also, they're really quick with your orders.) The next morning,we set out on an early ride to Himeji, to explore Himeji castle . The town is sort of built around the castle, and eerything (even drain covers) reflect that.
This 400- year old clastle is beautifully preserved, and the serene wooden interiors belie the bloody histroty of the castle. The castle has witnessed revolts, wars, murder-suicides of 13 different families over 48 generations. Needless to say, it has its fair share for legends (and ghosts), but what truly impressed me was how well- preserved it was, and how lovingly they took care of the wooden interiors. (you're advised to to wear heels or shoes with hard soles, and once inside, you're expected to remove your shoes and carry them in a shoe bag to preserve the flooring.)
The ancient contruction techniques on display was such a pleasure to experience.
We arrived back in Hiroshima by afternoon, with a surprising lack of anything christmassy - but not befert of hoardes of gaggling teens on shopping sprees, judging my fashionchoices. Really, move on, child, I already have 2 judgy teens of my own. Totally water off a duck's back at this point. Totally. Hiroshima was rebuld from tehground up after 1949 (hardly anything survived the A-bomb and the typhoon) We walked along the A-bomb dome down to Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park and the Children's Peace Memorial as we headed to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum. Child 2 spent a good 20 minutes penning down a message at the Peace memorial dedicated to Sadako Sasaki, a victim of the radiation from the atomic bomb fall out. The peace memorial has thousands of paper cranes from all over the world - made by children who wish for a world without nuclear war. And is a beautiful segue into the Peace Museum.
The museum itself is a must-visit, to really understand the absoulte devanstation cause by nuclear weapons and why we must never come to point where countries threaten to use them. The worlds first Atomic war should hopefully be the World's only atomic war. Even the staunchest of supporters can't help but be moved by the absolute devastataion that the atomic bomb caused. Calling it cute-sy names like ;Little boy' and 'Fat man' only makes the pain and suffering felt by the pople of Hiroshima and Nagasaki by trivilising the potency of this deathe machin.
It too a while to fully go back to our usual selves but we decided to end the day with with a traditional Japanese theatre production -Kagura. Kagura is a dance-drama of sorts with gorgeos costumes, accoumanied by a live traditional orchestra. It was originally performed as a Shinto ritual, but these days, it is used to promote traditional Japanese arts. This particular Kagura retold the sory of Mount Suzaka - the key baddies was -get this- from India and female! Already two pluses in its favour. The Kagura was performed brilliantly by the artists and reminded me of some of the traditonal Terukkuttu prformances from Tamil Nadu. They also had subtitles in English displayed across the top of the stage,which help us undertsand the play better, and it was a completey immmersive and throughly enjoyable hour at the theatre.
Hiroshima was everything and nothing like I'd imagined.Hiroshima tugged at your heartstings andmade you feel utter despair one minute and full of hope the next. Hiroshima had my heart.

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